Face shape detector
or drag a photo onto this box
Front-facing, hair back from your jaw. Your photo is analysed on your own device - nothing is uploaded unless you later buy the full report, with your consent.
No. 01
These are styling profiles, not scientific categories. Plenty of faces sit between two of them, which is why the result names the closest shape and flags when you’re near a boundary.
The default
Slightly longer than it is wide, with a forehead a touch broader than the jaw and a softly rounded chin. It's the shape most cutting guides treat as the default.
The aim: Nothing needs correcting, so choose on hair texture and how much upkeep you want rather than on shape.
Width ≈ length
Width and length are close to equal, with full cheeks and a soft jawline. Reads younger than average, which is why so much advice tries to 'fix' it.
The aim: Draw the eye vertically. Length, height at the crown and off-centre partings lengthen; width at the cheeks does the opposite.
Cornered jaw
A strong, defined jaw with forehead, cheekbones and jaw at similar widths. Photographs extremely well - it's a common model face.
The aim: Soften the corners rather than hide them. Curves, texture and diagonal lines break up the straight edges of the jaw.
Tapered chin
A wide forehead and cheekbones tapering to a narrow, often pointed chin. Frequently comes with a widow's peak.
The aim: Balance the top against the bottom - reduce visual width at the forehead, add fullness around the jaw.
Longer than wide
Noticeably longer than it is wide, with a long straight cheek line and forehead, cheekbones and jaw at similar widths.
The aim: Interrupt the vertical line. A fringe shortens the face instantly; width at the sides does the rest.
Widest at the cheekbones
Narrow forehead and narrow jaw with the widest point at the cheekbones. Angular and photographs sharply.
The aim: Add width where the face is narrow - forehead and jaw - so the cheekbones read as a highlight rather than the whole story.
No. 02
The whole site on one screen. Each row names the single thing a cut or a frame is trying to achieve for that shape, then three of each that achieve it - the full lists, with upkeep and what to skip, are in the guides linked at the end of each row.
| Shape | What the cut should do | Hair to try | Frames to try |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ovalhair guideglasses guide | Nothing, structurally - it is already balanced, so choose on texture and upkeep | Classic Pixie, Blunt Lob, Angled Bob | Rectangle, Square, Geometric |
| Roundhair guideglasses guide | Add vertical line and break up the width across the cheeks | Angled Bob, Long and Sleek, Volume at the Crown | Rectangle, Square, Geometric |
| Squarehair guideglasses guide | Soften the corners of the jaw without hiding it | Volume at the Crown, Wolf Cut, Long Layers | Round, Aviator, Oval |
| Hearthair guideglasses guide | Build weight around the jaw to answer a wider forehead | Blunt Lob, Long and Sleek, Chin-Length Bob | Bottom-Heavy, Oversized, Aviator |
| Oblonghair guideglasses guide | Interrupt the length and put width back at the sides | Full Blunt Fringe, Chin-Length Bob, Italian Bob | Oversized, Round, Aviator |
| Diamondhair guideglasses guide | Widen the forehead and jaw so the cheekbones stop dominating | Bixie, Chin-Length Bob, Italian Bob | Round, Browline, Wayfarer |
One rule outranks everything in the frames column: the glasses have to be as wide as your face at the temples. A frame in the right shape and the wrong width still looks wrong, and it is the mistake people make most often when they buy online.
No. 03
Most face shape quizzes ask you to judge your own jaw and forehead, which is exactly the thing people find hard to do. This reads 478 facial landmarks from your photo and compares four ratios - face length against width, cheekbones against jaw, forehead against cheekbones, and the angle of the jaw itself.
All of it happens inside your browser. The photo is never sent to a server, so there is nothing for us to store, and nothing to delete.
The reference values for all six shapes, the weighting between the four ratios and the four things this measurement cannot do are set out in full on how we measure.
It is the same arithmetic this page runs, and worth knowing because it lets you check the answer rather than take it on faith. Take four measurements with a soft tape, looking straight into a mirror:
Then read them against each other. If length and cheekbone width are within about ten percent, you are in round or square territory, and the jaw decides which. If length clearly exceeds width, you are in oval or oblong. A forehead wider than the jaw with a narrow chin is heart; cheekbones wider than both forehead and jaw is diamond.
Oval vs oblong. Both are longer than they are wide, and oblong simply more so - which is why the ratio alone will not separate them. The reliable tell is the cheek line. An oval face curves gently from cheekbone down to jaw; an oblong face has a straight vertical stretch between the two. If that section reads as a line rather than a curve, treat it as oblong. The advice then diverges sharply: an oval face can take almost anything, while an oblong face wants its length interrupted.
Round vs square. These share proportions - both are about as wide as they are long - and differ only at the corners. A round face curves continuously from ear to chin with no visible angle. A square face has a distinct corner at the back of the jaw. Same measurements, different structure, and the cut that softens a square jaw is not the cut that lengthens a round face.
Between two shapes is a normal result rather than a failed one. When your measurements sit near a boundary the tool names the runner-up as well, because the honest answer is that you have a foot in both - and the styling advice for neighbouring shapes agrees far more often than it disagrees.
Face shape is the first filter, not the whole answer, and it is worth saying where it stops - most pages in this category do not.
Six is a convention, not a fact about faces. There is no biological boundary between an oval face and an oblong one, and no census that found six kinds of head. The six-way split is inherited hairdressing shorthand; other systems in use run to seven or nine by carving up the same continuum differently. It is a useful convention - it maps cleanly onto what a cut is trying to do - but a measurement that lands you near a line is describing a real in-between face rather than failing to pick.
A front-on photo has no profile in it. A strong jaw and a receding one can measure identically from the front, because both are the same width at the same points. For some decisions that gap matters more than the shape does - whether a blunt bob ends flatteringly, how a fringe sits, what a short back does to your neck. Nothing measured here can see any of it.
Your features do more work than your outline. Where your eyes sit, how long your nose reads, how full your mouth is - those change how a face is perceived more than the shape of its border does, and none of them are in this calculation. It is why two people with the same measured shape can suit visibly different things, and why this result is a starting direction rather than a prescription.
It is also not permanent. Jaw definition, weight and the soft tissue of the cheeks all shift over years, and the shape shifts with them. The technical limits of the measurement itself - what the mesh can and cannot see - are set out on how we measure, and the reasons your hair may not do what the shape suggests are on the hairstyle finder.
FAQ
Once you know your shape, see the cuts that suit it or read the full guide for your shape. Eyes are measured separately - find your eye shape.